I think you know what I mean. Take a look at this sample image:



Specifically, how the shading gradually ramps up in brightness as it approaches the middle. It was rendered in 8-bit without dithering, and so suffers from an obvious contouring effect, despite taking more or less full advantage of what 8 bit has to offer. Th goal here is to end up with a replacement for this contoured shading that utilizes dithering to mask the limits of 8-bit color.


Here's the thing. I know I could get this done if I 1) masked off the parts I don't want to change, and then 2) applied a blur to the contoured component. I know. But I have hundreds of images that need to be processed in a similar way, so painstakingly masking every single one is quite simply off the table.

What I really need is some kind of filter that can intelligently identify this sort of low-bit-depth contouring artifact and transform it into a higher-detail gradient. So that I could for example convert the image to 16-bit, apply the effect, then downconvert it back with dithering, and get my result.

I feel like this is a common enough artifact that good solutions exist by now. I just don't know where I should be looking.

Thanks in advance.

Hello. Im simplying trying to make newsprint work on a solid color, why doesnt it?
It either blacks out the entire screen, doesnt do anything, or blacks out everything except for where Im trying to apply circles.
I had to apply newsprint cirles on a solid color red background and I went through like 40 hurdles just to put circles on a red background.
Im trying to do that same thing, literally just circles on red text, but it doesnt work? 
Doesnt matter if its black on white, white on black, rgb, cmyk, it will do everything besides simply apply circles.
Or it does apply circles, but they are incredibly small, only white (cant be changed despite changing from black on white, rgb, etc) and are actually squares.

This effect was working perfectly a few days ago and Im trying to apply it in the same way and no dice. I opened my older projects to see how I did it, and I try to replicate the process but nothing.

Its really annoying me, Ive been at this on and off for 8 hours and Ive got to get this done. 

It can do lines perfectly, but as soon as I ask for circles i get these small white squares (despite selecting circle) that are incredibly far apart so its barely even noticable on my text.
Why cant gimp just work the same way twice

Im so burnt out over this simple issue when I know ive done it countless times. I dont get it.

I want to change the exposure on like 20 layers all at once. I thought the "layer group" feature should be the thing to use, but when I group all these layers together, all "color" options are greyed out when I select the group. I'm still only able to affect one layer at a time.

Is there any other GIMP feature that will help me do this instead?

Problem: try to fill a selected rectangle with bucket, but selecting the bucket tool cancels the selection.

How to reproduce:
1. Create a new layer, fill it with white
2. Select a rectangular on it
3. Click on the bucket tool  ... Oops! Bang! 

The selection goes away. Nothing left for the bucket to fill. Would like to understand why this happens and how to make the selection stay long enough for the bucket to fill it?

Hi, 

I'm relatively new to GIMP and have just made my first image (an advert for an eSports match). However, when I go to export it, it adds a grey block into the middle of the image... I've linked a png version of the image exported image. 

There's nothing that shape on the xcf file and I can't work out why it's happening. When i reload that PNG into GIMP it actually shows the block as transparent. 

The xcf file can be found here.

I've got no real idea where to start! Any help would be welcome

Hi everyone, new to this forum and very new to GIMP too! 

I started using it to edit my product photos for my Etsy shop but am having trouble achieving a good, professional looking consistency between the pictures. I use my phone to take photos and use only natural light(I have an inkling this may be part of the problem as the lighting switches so much from moment to moment). I want my product photos lighting and colour balance etc to look consistent but it seems that no matter how much I play around with the controls(Colour- Levels, Colour- Colour Balance and cropping a segment of the target image and layering it over the other to try and get colours the same) but I cant get it close enough.

For example, I want this picture...



to have the same sort of lighting etc as this image...



Any help very much appreciated!

Hey im currently working on some retexturing for some cars in a game and they have mud on it so here is my problem the mud is currently to pixelated and if i use a brush or something it looks like a censor how can i improve this so it looks like real mud ? (see attachments)

Attached Files

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I have just put Ubuntu 20.04 on a new disk and installed version 2.10.24 of GIMP using the "Ubuntu Software" application.

My images are stored on a secondary internal hard drive that is automatically mounted on boot.

When trying to open a file, if I click on any folder on that mounted drive I get the following error:




I've set all of the permissions to "On" from the Ubuntu Software app and have manually set all directories in the path to rwx across the board.

What have I forgotten?

Thanks

Keith

PS - I had no issues with the same hardware and Ubuntu 18.04 (alas, I didn't make a note of the GIMP version)

I downloaded the current stable version this morning. I have a line drawing of a star.  The checkerboard pattern is outside  and inside of the star line drawing.  Is there a way to get rid of all the checkerboard both inside and outside the black line drawing?  Thanks in advance to all who answer.

I have a folder containing JPGs of page scans. Each page is "4-up," that is, has an image in each of the four quarters of the page. I'd like to automate a process of GIMP reading in each file in the folder, centering the image on an 8-1/2" x 11" canvas (in case the original scan wasn't exactly this size), then parting out each of the four quarters into separate files (ideally named as the original file, but with -1, -2, -3 and -4 as suffixes).

Given that I've never used scripting or other automation in GIMP, can anyone suggest the simplest route, that requires the least amount of education on my part?